This necklace was made by Cartier, London, in 1932 for Lady Granard, daughter of American Ogden Mills. From the Cartier Archiv:
Diamonds in open-back platinum setting, in the centre a large rectangular emerald of 143,13carats. The front part with graduated Persian-style fringe on a flexible collar with diamonds set in a cresent shape, the back part with graduated buckle – shaped links detaches at the side. Completed in January 1932.
In addition to the huge emerald, there are four baton diamonds flanking the emerald and, on the lower elemet, fourteen square diamonds for each of the geometric fringe motifs, plus no fewer than 2011 brilliant-cut diamonds. The stones were all supplied by the client.
At first it was a long sautoir and changed to a round collar type necklace occurred around 1930-31.
